Paint In Watercolor

The watercolor technique graded wash is a process for painting large, graded color backgrounds or underpainting for glazing and for smaller areas and objects in a composition using the wet-on-wet technique.

The watercolor is applied in a gentle graduated effect where the color value is darker at the top and gradually gets paler down to the bottom. This is achieved by painting the first few horizontal rows with watercolor paint across the top of the paper or desired area within a composition.

Next, dip the brush in clean water—not paint—and paint a row of diluted color across the bottom of the previous row. For each consecutive row thereafter, continue to dip the brush in water only to paint the next row until the bottom is reached.

By adding only water to the brush after each row is painted, the watercolor gradually gets lighter in value.

In addition to painting a background, the graded wash technique is also used for painting smaller areas and objects within a composition.

For covering large areas, use a one-inch flat brush or an oval “wash brush” (also called a “mop brush”). To paint smaller areas with a wet-on-wet wash, use a round brush size 10 or larger.

Controlling the brush and the painting speed is important. The wetness of the paper needs to be consistent until the desired area is covered with the graded wash. The tip of the brush should lightly touch the paper and move across the paper in a smooth, horizontal stroke.

When the graded wash is completed, leave the paper tilted at a slight angle on a board or easel until it has dried completely. Then proceed with painting the rest of your watercolor composition.

The Artistic Purpose of a Graded Wash

Beyond its technical application, the graded wash plays an important role in watercolor composition and visual storytelling. A smooth transition from dark to light naturally guides the viewer’s eye across the painting, helping to establish movement and depth.

Artists commonly use graded washes to suggest atmosphere, light direction, and spatial distance. Skies, water, mist, fog, and distant landscapes often rely on graded washes to create a sense of openness and air without sharp edges or heavy detail.

Common Variations of the Graded Wash

While graded washes are often introduced using a single color, the technique allows for several creative variations:

• Single-color graded wash: One pigment gradually diluted with water, ideal for skies, backgrounds, and underpainting.
• Two-color graded wash: One color transitions into another, such as blue fading into warm earth tones near the horizon.
• Value-only grading: The hue remains consistent while only the value changes, creating subtle tonal shifts without color mixing.

These variations allow the graded wash technique to adapt to many subjects and styles.

Choosing the Right Paper for a Graded Wash

Paper selection has a significant impact on the success of a graded wash.

• 100% cotton watercolor paper provides longer working time and smoother transitions.
• Cold press paper adds texture that can enhance atmospheric effects.
• Hot press paper creates very smooth gradients but requires confident brush control due to faster drying time.

Using quality paper helps prevent streaking, uneven absorption, and unintended hard edges.

Using Gravity and Paper Tilt to Your Advantage

Gravity plays an important role in creating a smooth graded wash. A slight tilt allows pigment to flow downward naturally, assisting the transition from dark to light.

Maintaining a consistent tilt throughout the wash helps prevent pooling or uneven bands of color. Too steep an angle can cause backruns, while a flat surface may result in uneven blending.

Graded Wash as an Underpainting for Glazing

Graded washes are often used as underpainting layers because they establish value and light direction early in the process. Once dry, transparent glazes can be applied over the graded wash to deepen color and add detail without disturbing the smooth transition underneath.

This approach is especially effective in skies, water reflections, and atmospheric landscape painting.

Common Graded Wash Problems and How to Fix Them

Understanding common challenges can help improve results:

• Hard lines between rows: The paper or brush was too dry.
• Streaky appearance: Inconsistent brush pressure or insufficient paint mixture.
• Blooms or backruns: Water was added after the wash began to dry.
• Muddy color: The surface was overworked.

Practicing control and timing is key to mastering this technique.

Practicing the Watercolor Technique Graded Wash

To build confidence, practice graded washes using a single pigment and one brush. Try creating washes both vertically and horizontally, and experiment with transitioning from dark to light as well as light to dark.

Regular practice helps develop brush control, timing, and an intuitive understanding of how watercolor behaves on paper.

Recommended Watercolor Paper for Graded Wash Painting

Use 140 lb cold press archival 100% cotton rag watercolor paper. It is advisable to stretch the watercolor paper first to prevent it from buckling if you plan to cover the paper with a wet-on-wet wash. To avoid stretching the paper, I recommend using a watercolor paper block.

Cotton paper withstands repeated wetting and drying better than cellulose paper, making it ideal for wet-on-wet techniques.

The watercolor technique hard and soft edges is a process of applying watercolor by blending a sharp edge into a blurred edge to make it appear to fade softly into the distance for depicting perspective and/or for forming three-dimensional shapes.

Understanding how to control edges is one of the most important skills in watercolor painting. Edges influence depth, realism, and where the viewer’s eye travels within a composition. Even simple subjects can appear dynamic and dimensional when hard and soft edges are used intentionally.

Why Edges Matter More Than Color

In watercolor painting, edges often communicate form and depth more effectively than color alone. The human eye is naturally drawn to contrast, and a sharp edge immediately attracts attention, while a soft edge allows the eye to move gently across a painting.

By varying edges, artists can:

• Establish focal points
• Create a sense of atmosphere and distance
• Suggest movement, light, and form
• Avoid flat or overly outlined compositions

Mastering edge control is an essential step toward creating expressive, professional-looking watercolor paintings.

Hard Edges

Hard, sharp edges are best achieved using the wet-on-dry technique.

Painting hard edges can be achieved by using the tip of the brush to paint a line on dry paper. Then continue to paint in the shape of the object being painted.

For more control, masking fluid, masking film, or masking tape can be applied to the edges of the object to be painted. If using masking fluid, wait for it to dry completely. Then paint within the shape that has been masked off. After the painted area has dried, remove the masking.

Hard edges can also be formed by pushing pigment to the outside of a shape by first painting the shape then dropping clear water from the tip of a brush into the center of the shape. This will push the paint pigments to the outer edge of the painted shape forming a hard edge.

When to Use Hard Edges in Watercolor Painting

Hard edges are most effective when used selectively. Because they command attention, they are ideal for areas you want the viewer to notice first.

Common uses for hard edges include:

• Foreground objects
• Architectural elements
• High-contrast light and shadow areas
• Strong focal points

Too many hard edges throughout a painting can make the composition feel stiff or overly detailed, so balance is key.

Soft Edges

Soft, blurred edges are best achieved using the wet-on-wet technique.

Painting soft edges can be achieved by brushing watercolor onto paper previously wetted with water. The edges of the painted area will spread outward causing a soft, blurred edge of color.

Soft edges can also be achieved by adding water to a clean brush and painting over a hard edge before the edge has dried. This method is used for fading a color to a lighter value in blending and molding shapes such as folds in fabric, depicting light and shadow reflected on forms, etc.

Using Soft Edges to Create Atmosphere and Depth

Soft edges are especially effective for suggesting distance, subtle transitions, and atmospheric effects. As objects recede into the background, edges naturally appear softer and less defined.

Soft edges work well for:

• Background elements
• Clouds, mist, and fog
• Skin tones and fabric folds
• Shadows and reflected light

Using soft edges helps prevent harsh separations between shapes and creates a more natural, painterly look.

Combining Hard and Soft Edges for Realism

Most realistic watercolor paintings use a combination of both hard and soft edges—often within the same object.

For example:

• A tree trunk may have hard edges on the sunlit side and soft edges blending into shadow
• A flower petal may have a crisp edge against the background but soft transitions within the petal itself

This variation adds visual interest and strengthens the illusion of three-dimensional form.

Lost and Found Edges in Watercolor

A more advanced concept related to hard and soft edges is the idea of lost and found edges.

• A lost edge occurs when two adjacent areas share a similar value, causing the edge to visually disappear
• A found edge reappears where contrast increases

Artists use lost edges intentionally to create softness, mystery, and a sense of atmosphere, allowing parts of a subject to blend gently into their surroundings.

The Role of Paper Dampness in Edge Control

Edge quality is heavily influenced by the moisture level of the paper at the time paint is applied.

• Wet paper creates very soft, flowing edges
• Damp paper allows for controlled soft edges
• Dry paper produces crisp, hard edges

Learning to recognize these stages helps artists control edges more predictably and avoid unintended blooms or backruns.

Common Mistakes When Painting Hard and Soft Edges

Some common challenges artists encounter include:

• Making all edges equally hard, resulting in flat compositions
• Overworking edges until the paint becomes muddy
• Attempting to soften edges after the paint has already dried
• Using too much water when softening edges, causing backruns

Being mindful of timing and restraint can significantly improve edge quality.

Simple Practice Exercises for Edge Control

To build confidence with hard and soft edges, try practicing with simple shapes before moving on to complex subjects.

Helpful exercises include:

• Painting spheres or cylinders using one hard edge and one soft edge
• Softening only one side of a painted shape
• Creating value strips with different edge transitions

These exercises train the eye and hand to work together more intuitively.

Choosing the Right Edge for Your Composition

When deciding whether to use a hard or soft edge, consider where you want the viewer’s attention to go. Hard edges naturally pull focus, while soft edges support and enhance surrounding areas.

A useful question to ask while painting is: Where do I want the viewer to look first?
Your answer will often determine where the sharpest edges belong.

Recommended Watercolor Paper for Hard & Soft Edge Painting

Use 140 lb cold press archival 100% cotton rag watercolor paper. It is advisable to stretch the watercolor paper first to prevent it from buckling if you plan to cover the paper with a wet-on-wet wash. To avoid stretching the paper, I recommend using a watercolor paper block.

Cotton paper withstands repeated wetting and drying better than cellulose paper, making it ideal for wet-on-wet techniques.

The watercolor technique light-to-dark is the process of applying colors that are light in value, such as transparent watercolors thinned with a sufficient amount of water, on the first layers of a painting.

Each layer is allowed to dry completely before the next layer is applied.

Middle value colors are applied next, followed by darker value colors.

Painting light-to-dark is the basic process for painting in watercolor. Each successive layer of darker color adds more detail to the objects in the composition defining its shape and depth.

Why Watercolor Painting Requires a Light-To-Dark Approach

Watercolor is a transparent and subtractive medium, meaning light areas must be preserved from the very beginning of a painting. Unlike oil or acrylic paint, white watercolor paint is rarely used to create highlights. Instead, the white of the paper provides the lightest values in the composition.

Once a dark color is applied in watercolor, it is difficult—often impossible—to return that area to a lighter value without damaging the paper surface. Painting light-to-dark allows the artist to build depth gradually while maintaining clarity and luminosity throughout the painting.

This approach also helps prevent muddy colors, which can occur when dark pigments are layered too early or overworked.

Identifying Color Values

Hues on the color wheel are divided into light, middle and dark colors. The top section of the color wheel has light hues. The middle section of the color wheel has middle value hues. And, the bottom section of the color wheel has dark hues. As follows:

Light Value Hue

• Yellow
• Yellow-Green
• Green
• Yellow-Orange

Middle Value Hues

• Orange
• Red-Orange
• Blue-Green
• Blue

Dark Value Hues

• Blue-Purple
• Purple
• Red-Purple
• Red

See What Watercolors To Buy for a list of watercolor paint names for the hues listed above. Each hue also has colors within it that can range from light to dark. For instance, there are very light yellows and darker yellows in watercolor paints. But, yellow in general is the lightest color on the color wheel.

Understanding Value vs. Color in Watercolor Painting

Value refers to how light or dark a color appears, independent of its hue. Two different colors can have the same value even if they appear very different on the color wheel.

In watercolor painting, value is often more important than color. Strong value contrast helps define form, create depth, and guide the viewer’s eye through the composition. Many artists squint at their subject or reference photo to simplify shapes into light, middle, and dark value areas before painting.

Practicing value awareness helps prevent flat-looking paintings and strengthens overall composition.

Transparency, Opacity, and Pigment Choice

Transparent watercolor pigments are especially effective in the early, light stages of a painting because they allow light to pass through the pigment and reflect off the white paper beneath.

As darker values are added, semi-transparent or opaque pigments can be introduced to increase visual weight and contrast. Some pigments also granulate, creating texture that can appear darker or more intense even in lighter washes.

Understanding pigment behavior helps artists make informed choices when layering light-to-dark.

Water Control When Painting Light To Dark

Water control plays a critical role in successful light-to-dark watercolor painting.

• Early layers contain more water and less pigment.
• Middle values use a more balanced paint-to-water ratio.
• Dark values contain more pigment and less water.

Applying too much water in later, darker layers can cause blooms or backruns that disrupt earlier washes. Allowing each layer to dry completely helps maintain clean edges and crisp value transitions.

Common Mistakes When Painting Light To Dark

Many beginners struggle with light-to-dark watercolor painting for the following reasons:

• Starting with values that are too dark
• Rushing layers before they are fully dry
• Overworking middle values, leaving no contrast for darker accents
• Using black or very dark mixes too early in the process

Being mindful of these pitfalls helps preserve highlights and improves overall clarity in a painting.

Creating Mood and Focus Through Value Progression

Value progression has a strong emotional impact on a painting. Compositions dominated by light values often feel airy, calm, or ethereal, while strong dark accents create drama and visual focus.

By intentionally controlling how and where darker values appear, artists can guide the viewer’s attention to focal points and enhance the overall storytelling of the artwork.

When Artists Intentionally Break the Light-To-Dark Rule

Although painting light-to-dark is the foundation of watercolor technique, experienced artists sometimes place darker values early to establish structure or anchor a composition.

Negative painting, for example, relies on painting around lighter shapes with progressively darker values. Even in these cases, value awareness remains essential, and the light-to-dark principle still guides decision-making.

Breaking the rule effectively requires a strong understanding of value relationships.

Practice Exercises for Mastering Light-To-Dark Watercolor Painting

The following exercises help reinforce light-to-dark technique:

• Create a single-color value scale from light wash to darkest mix
• Paint a simple subject using only three values: light, middle, and dark
• Paint the same subject twice—once with mostly light values and once with stronger dark contrasts

These exercises strengthen control, confidence, and value awareness.

Recommended Watercolor Paper for Light To Dark Painting

Use 140 lb cold press archival 100% cotton rag watercolor paper. It is advisable to stretch the watercolor paper first to prevent it from buckling if you plan to cover the paper with a wet-on-wet wash. To avoid stretching the paper, I recommend using a watercolor paper block.

Cotton paper withstands repeated wetting and drying better than cellulose paper, making it ideal for wet-on-wet techniques.

The watercolor technique flat wash is a process for painting large, solid-color backgrounds or underpainting for glazing and for smaller areas and objects in a composition using the wet-on-wet technique.

A sufficient amount of watercolor paint and water needs to be mixed ahead of time so that the color value is consistent throughout the flat wash process. If you have to stop to mix more watercolor with water, the paper will become dry, and your wash mixture will most likely not have the same color value as your initial wash.

For covering large areas, use a one-inch flat brush or an oval “wash brush” (also called a “mop brush”). To paint smaller areas with a wet-on-wet wash, use a round brush size 10 or larger.

Controlling the brush and the painting speed is important. The wetness of the paper needs to be consistent until the desired area is covered with the flat wash. The tip of the brush should lightly touch the paper and move across the paper in a smooth, horizontal stroke.

When the flat wash is complete, leave the paper tilted at a slight angle on a board or easel until it has dried completely. Then proceed with painting the rest of your watercolor composition.

Why the Flat Wash Is a Foundational Watercolor Technique

Although flat washes are often used for skies, backgrounds, and underpainting, this technique is one of the most important skills to master in watercolor painting. Flat washes teach essential control over water, pigment load, timing, and brush movement. These same skills are required for more advanced techniques such as glazing, graded washes, and expressive wet-on-wet effects.

Practicing flat washes consistently helps develop confidence and precision, making them an excellent foundational exercise for both beginners and experienced painters.

Choosing the Right Paper for a Successful Flat Wash

Paper choice plays a major role in how evenly a flat wash behaves. Professional, artist-grade watercolor paper—especially 100% cotton—allows the wash to stay workable longer, giving you more time to complete the area without streaks or hard edges.

Cold press paper offers enough texture to hold pigment evenly, while hot press paper produces smoother, sharper washes but dries more quickly. Lightweight papers tend to buckle, causing paint to pool unevenly and making consistent washes more difficult to achieve.

Using Gravity to Control a Flat Wash

The slight tilt of the paper during and after a flat wash is a subtle but crucial detail. Angling the paper (at least 10–15 degrees) allows gravity to guide the flow of pigment downward in a controlled manner. This creates a small bead of paint that helps prevent streaks and uneven drying.

Painting on a completely flat surface increases the risk of blooms and patchy areas, especially when working on larger sections.

Flat Wash vs. Graded Wash: Understanding the Difference

A flat wash maintains a single, consistent color value across the entire painted area. In contrast, a graded wash transitions gradually from dark to light or from one color intensity to another.

Learning to control a flat wash first makes graded washes significantly easier, as both techniques rely on the same principles of timing, water control, and brush movement.

Color Mixing Tips for Flat Wash Consistency

Before applying a flat wash, always mix more paint than you think you will need. Granulating pigments may naturally settle unevenly, creating texture even in a flat wash, while staining pigments tend to produce smoother, more uniform results.

Testing your wash on scrap paper helps confirm both color value and flow before committing to your painting surface.

Common Flat Wash Problems and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced painters encounter challenges with flat washes. Common issues include:

• Streaks: Caused by inconsistent moisture or uneven brush pressure
• Blooms (cauliflowers): Occur when wetter paint is introduced into a partially dried wash
• Uneven color: Often the result of insufficient paint mixture or stopping mid-wash

Understanding why these problems occur makes them easier to prevent with practice.

Using Flat Washes as Underpainting for Glazing

Flat washes are frequently used as an underpainting for glazing techniques. A smooth, even base layer establishes color harmony, light direction, and mood early in the painting process. Since glazes are transparent, any unevenness in the flat wash will become more noticeable as additional layers are applied.

A well-executed flat wash provides a strong foundation for luminous, layered watercolor paintings.

Practicing Flat Washes as a Skill-Building Exercise

Practicing flat washes regularly—such as painting full sheets in a single color—helps develop an intuitive understanding of water-to-paint ratios and drying time. Try repeating the exercise with different pigments and paper types to observe how each material behaves.

Flat washes make excellent daily warm-up exercises and are one of the most effective ways to improve overall watercolor control.

Recommended Watercolor Paper for Flat Wash Painting

Use 140 lb cold press archival 100% cotton rag watercolor paper. It is advisable to stretch the watercolor paper first to prevent it from buckling if you plan to cover the paper with a wet-on-wet wash. To avoid stretching the paper, I recommend using a watercolor paper block.

Cotton paper withstands repeated wetting and drying better than cellulose paper, making it ideal for wet-on-wet techniques.

Watercolor technique – Mixing colors is combining two or more watercolor paints to create a variety of color mixtures. The most common method uses a palette to which paints are added and mixed together with water and other colors. Another method for mixing colors is by combining colors directly on the paper surface.

Understanding Pigment Properties When Mixing Colors

Successful color mixing in watercolor depends not only on color theory but also on how individual pigments behave. Every watercolor paint has unique characteristics that influence how clean or dull a mixture appears.

Some important pigment properties to be aware of include:

• Single-pigment vs. multi-pigment paints – Single-pigment colors generally create cleaner, more predictable mixtures, while multi-pigment paints can become muddy more quickly.
• Staining vs. non-staining pigments – Staining pigments are harder to lift and tend to dominate mixtures, while non-staining pigments allow for softer blends.
• Granulating vs. non-granulating pigments – Granulating pigments separate and settle into the paper texture, creating textured mixes rather than smooth, even color.

Understanding these properties helps explain why two paints that look compatible on the color wheel may behave very differently once mixed.

Best Watercolors for Mixing Colors

Not all colors mix well together. So, it is important to know which colors to choose before mixing them. Jim Kosvanec did extensive studies of watercolor paints and developed a color chart that categorizes watercolors into groups of colors by their characteristics. See Which Watercolor Paints Are Transparent for help in choosing watercolors for mixing colors.

For the best results, only use transparent and semi-transparent watercolor paints for mixing colors.

Single-Pigment Colors and Clean Color Mixing

When possible, choose single-pigment watercolor paints for mixing. These paints contain only one pigment, which reduces the chance of dull or overworked mixtures. Clean mixes are especially important when creating bright secondary and tertiary colors.

Using fewer pigments in a mixture also makes it easier to recreate the same color later in the painting.

Mixing Colors on the Palette

Preparing a palette is central to starting the painting process. It involves selecting paint colors and placing a sufficient amount of paint for mixing on the palette surface. A palette can be made specifically for the purpose of mixing colors and have compartments to hold each paint color. It could also be an enameled butcher tray or a plain dinner plate.

Two color mixtures are prepared at the start of a painting:

• The first is a large mixture of paint containing a lot of water for washes that will be used the most in the painting. A separate bowl or enameled butcher tray would be ideal for this purpose.
• The second are small puddles of water mixed with color on the mixing area of the palette. The brush is used to drag color from the paint wells onto the flat area of the palette, where it is mixed with water.

When adding watercolor paint to the palette’s paint wells, arrange the warm colors on one side and the cool colors on the other side. Use two brushes, one for warm colors and one for cool colors, to keep colors and mixtures clear.

The Importance of Water-to-Paint Ratio in Color Mixing

The amount of water used when mixing colors has a significant impact on the final result. Water affects transparency, value, and how pigments interact with one another.

• More water creates lighter, more transparent mixtures and allows colors to mix optically.
• Less water produces stronger, more saturated color but can quickly overpower a mixture.
• Testing mixtures at different dilutions helps prevent unexpected color shifts once paint is applied to paper.

Many muddy mixtures are the result of too much paint rather than poor color choices.

Mixing Colors on Watercolor Paper

Three different approaches used to mix colors directly on the watercolor paper are:

• Glazing or Layering – is painting a warm Primary color as the first layer, and after it has dried, painting a cool Primary color as the second layer over the first. The two Primary colors layered over each other will result in a Secondary color. For example, a Blue layer painted over a Yellow layer will result in a Green color.
• Organic Mingling – is dropping one color into a wet painted area of another color and letting the two colors mix organically.
• Variegated Bleeds – is painting one color at one end of a shape and painting another color at the opposite end of the shape, then using the brush to drag the two colors together at the center of the shape, allowing them to bleed color into each other.

Optical Mixing vs. Physical Mixing in Watercolor

Watercolor allows for two distinct types of color mixing:

• Physical mixing occurs when pigments are fully blended together on the palette.
• Optical mixing happens when colors are layered or mingled on the paper and visually mix in the viewer’s eye.

Techniques such as glazing, organic mingling, and variegated washes rely heavily on optical mixing and often result in more luminous color than palette mixing alone.

Using Complementary Colors Without Creating Mud

Complementary colors naturally neutralize each other when mixed. While this can lead to muddy results if overmixed, it can also be used intentionally.

Complementary mixing is useful for:

• Creating natural shadows
• Muting overly bright colors
• Developing subtle neutrals for backgrounds

The key is to mix complements gradually and stop before the mixture becomes dull and lifeless.

Mixing Colors for Harmony Instead of Accuracy

Color mixing in watercolor is often more about harmony than exact color matching. Using a limited palette encourages consistency and visual unity throughout a painting.

Ways to create harmonious color mixtures include:

• Repeating the same mixed colors in multiple areas of a painting
• Pulling a small amount of one color into several different mixtures
• Allowing colors to mix naturally on the paper rather than forcing exact matches

This approach leads to more cohesive and expressive paintings.

Testing Color Mixtures Before Painting

Before applying a mixed color to your painting, it is helpful to test it on scrap watercolor paper.

Testing allows you to:

• See how the color looks once dry
• Observe transparency and granulation
• Adjust water or pigment before committing to the painting

Labeling test swatches with pigment names rather than color names can also improve color learning over time.

Common Watercolor Color Mixing Mistakes to Avoid

Some frequent issues painters encounter when mixing watercolor colors include:

• Mixing too many pigments together
• Using opaque pigments unintentionally
• Overworking mixtures on the palette
• Not allowing layers to fully dry before glazing

Being mindful of these common mistakes can greatly improve color clarity and confidence.

The watercolor technique glazing and layering are very similar processes for painting transparent and semi-transparent watercolor paint in layers, one color over another. What is the difference? The glazing technique is used to create luminous atmospheric effects and for underpainting a foundation for other glazes to be applied over it. Whereas the layering technique uses glazes specifically to build depth and three-dimensional form in stages.

In both the glazing technique and the layering technique, a layer of watercolor is allowed to dry completely before another layer is painted over it.

Why Glazing and Layering Work in Watercolor

Watercolor is uniquely suited to glazing and layering because of its transparency. Unlike opaque paint, watercolor allows light to pass through each layer, reflect off the white paper beneath, and travel back through the pigment layers. This interaction with light is what gives watercolor its characteristic luminosity and depth.

When used intentionally, glazing enhances atmosphere and color richness, while layering develops form, structure, and realism. Mastering these techniques teaches patience, observation, and value control—core skills for watercolor painting at any level.

Pigment Transparency and Why It Matters

Not all watercolor paints glaze equally well. Pigment transparency plays a critical role in how successful a glaze or layered passage will appear.

Transparent and semi-transparent pigments allow underlying colors to show through clearly, producing clean and luminous results. Opaque pigments, such as Cadmium colors or Naples Yellow, tend to block light and can dull previous layers. Granulating pigments add texture and visual interest, but they can interrupt smooth glazing effects.

For best results when glazing and layering:

• Choose transparent or semi-transparent pigments
• Favor single-pigment colors for cleaner color mixing
• Be mindful that granulating pigments reduce clarity in glazes

Understanding pigment behavior helps prevent muddy color and frustration.

Watercolor Glazing Technique

Use the watercolor technique wet-on-wet when applying glazes.

The first step is to brush, spray, or sponge a layer of clean water on the paper surface.

Next, mix a sufficient amount of watercolor paint with water to cover the paper surface area intended for glazing. This could be the whole sheet of watercolor paper or just a portion of it.

For a luminous effect, apply a warm color—usually a transparent yellow such as Aureolin – as the first layer. As mentioned above, it is very important to let the layer dry completely before applying the next.

Before applying the next layer of transparent watercolor, rewet the paper surface lightly with water. If working with the same brush, rinse it thoroughly with clean water. Then dip the clean brush in clean water and lightly brush the water over the previous glaze.

What color to use for the next glaze is determined by the underlying glaze color and what the combination of the two (or more) color layers will result in. For instance, adding a transparent layer of blue over a yellow layer results in the color green. A transparent red over a yellow layer results in the color orange. A transparent blue over a red layer results in the color purple. And so forth.

Value Control When Glazing

Glazing is as much about building value as it is about building color. Each successive glaze should slightly deepen the value without overpowering earlier layers.

Light, diluted glazes preserve luminosity and allow gradual adjustments. Applying a glaze that is too dark too soon can flatten the image and eliminate the glowing effect that glazing is meant to achieve. Thinking in terms of value first helps maintain clarity and control throughout the painting process.

Watercolor Layering Technique

Use the watercolor technique wet-on-dry for applying layers to build depth and form over an underpainting of glaze that can be applied wet-on-wet or wet-on-dry.

First, do a watercolor flat wash of the large, two-dimensional shape of a subject in the painting composition. Then let it dry completely.

Next, in stages, paint the smaller shapes over the large, two-dimensional shape.

Then paint the smaller, descriptive details as the final stage.

As each layer is applied, a three-dimensional shape is revealed.

Layering to Create Form and Depth

Layering works by gradually refining shapes and values. Each layer clarifies form, defines edges, and strengthens contrast. This approach is especially effective for subjects such as still lifes, architecture, botanicals, and realistic landscapes.

By moving from general shapes to specific details, layering prevents overworking early stages and helps maintain a clear visual structure throughout the painting.

Drying Time Is Part of the Technique

Allowing each layer to dry completely is essential for both glazing and layering. Drying time is influenced by paper type, humidity, and how much water is used.

Applying a new layer too soon can disturb previous pigment and create unwanted blooms or muddy color. To check dryness, lightly touch the paper with the back of your hand. A hair dryer may be used on low heat and kept moving, but natural drying is often safest.

Learning to recognize when paper is truly dry is a skill that improves with experience.

Common Glazing and Layering Mistakes

Some common challenges include:

• Lifting previous layers by overworking an area
• Muddy color from mixing incompatible pigments
• Blossoms caused by uneven moisture
• Streaks from insufficient paint mixture
• Overbuilding layers beyond what the paper can handle

Most of these issues can be avoided by working patiently, using appropriate pigments, and allowing adequate drying time.

When to Stop Glazing and Layering

Watercolor paper can only withstand a limited number of layers. Too many glazes can reduce vibrancy and damage the paper surface.

Knowing when to stop is part of developing artistic judgment. Leaving some areas untouched preserves contrast and freshness, allowing the viewer’s eye to rest and appreciate the luminous qualities of the medium.

Best Subjects for Practicing Glazing and Layering

Glazing and layering are especially effective when practicing:

• Skies and sunsets for atmospheric glazing
• Fruit and simple still lifes for layered form
• Leaves and flower petals using a combination of both techniques
• Architectural shadows and planes to develop depth

These subjects allow painters to focus on transparency, value shifts, and gradual color development.

Recommended Watercolor Paper for Glazing and Layering

Use 140 lb cold press archival 100% cotton rag watercolor paper. It is advisable to stretch the watercolor paper first to prevent it from buckling if you plan to cover the paper with a wet-on-wet wash. To avoid stretching the paper, I recommend using a watercolor paper block.

Cotton paper withstands repeated wetting and drying better than cellulose paper, making it ideal for wet-on-wet techniques.

The watercolor technique wet-on-dry is the process of applying a brush wet with watercolor paint to dry paper. This method allows a more controlled brush stroke for defining shapes and details and is the method most commonly used in watercolor painting.

Because the paper surface is dry, the paint stays where it is placed. This makes wet-on-dry one of the most reliable and predictable watercolor techniques, especially for artists who are learning brush control and paint handling.

Why Use the Wet-On-Dry Watercolor Technique?

One of the main advantages of the watercolor technique wet-on-dry is control. Unlike wet-on-wet, where paint spreads freely, wet-on-dry allows artists to create clean edges, precise lines, and clearly defined shapes.

This makes wet-on-dry especially useful for:

• Learning brush handling and pressure control
• Painting defined shapes and edges
• Adding details and texture
• Refining focal points in a composition

For students and hobbyists, wet-on-dry is often the easiest watercolor technique to understand because the relationship between the brush stroke and the resulting mark is direct and predictable.

Wet-On-Dry Mark Making Technique

A variety of wet-on-dry brush strokes can be achieved for making natural-looking marks, lines from thin to thick, sharp edges, and textures depending upon how the brush is held and how much watercolor paint is on the brush.

• Lightly touching the tip of a wet brush to the dry paper produces a thin line.
• Pressing the side of a wet brush down onto the dry paper produces a thicker mark or line.
• Lightly stroking a dry brush (one with very little watercolor paint on it) produces texture.

Practicing these strokes helps develop muscle memory and improves overall brush control, which is essential for watercolor painting.

How Paper Texture Affects Wet-On-Dry Results

The type of watercolor paper used can greatly influence the appearance of wet-on-dry brushstrokes.

• Hot-pressed paper has a smooth surface that produces crisp lines and sharp edges, making it ideal for fine details.
• Cold-pressed paper offers a slight texture that creates softer, more natural-looking marks while still allowing control.
• Rough paper exaggerates texture, causing broken lines and expressive marks as the brush skips across the surface.

Experimenting with different paper textures helps students understand how surface quality affects mark making.

Wet-On-Dry Wash Technique

Unlike the wet-on-wet wash technique, it is difficult to lay a wet-on-dry wash without the brush strokes showing. So, the wash will have streaks if you don’t work quickly.

The paper should be tilted slightly on an easel or board so that the watercolor paintbrush strokes flow downward more evenly. This will make the brush strokes less visible.

For covering large areas, use a one-inch flat brush or an oval “wash brush” (also called a “mop brush”). To paint smaller areas with a wet-on-wet wash, use a round brush size 10 or larger.

The brush needs to be full of watercolor paint. Apply the brush in an even stroke across the full width of the paper. Then immediately fill the brush again and brush across the bottom edge of the previous brush stroke the full width of the paper. Repeat this process until the desired area is covered with paint.

When the wet-on-dry wash is completed, leave the paper tilted at a slight angle on a board or easel until it has dried completely. Then proceed with painting the rest of your watercolor composition.

Tips for Smoother Wet-On-Dry Washes

Although wet-on-dry washes can show brush strokes, careful preparation can minimize streaking.

• Mix enough paint before starting to avoid stopping mid-wash
• Work quickly and confidently
• Maintain a consistent paint-to-water ratio
• Avoid going back over areas that have begun to dry

These habits are especially helpful for students who are still learning how paint behaves on paper.

Using Wet-On-Dry for Layering and Glazing

Wet-on-dry is the foundation of layering and glazing in watercolor painting. Each layer must be completely dry before applying the next.

Glazing allows artists to build depth and richness by applying transparent layers of color without disturbing earlier paint layers. This is especially useful for:

• Deepening shadows
• Adjusting color intensity
• Creating luminous effects

For beginners, glazing with wet-on-dry is an excellent way to learn patience and timing in watercolor.

Common Wet-On-Dry Mistakes to Avoid

Students and hobbyists often encounter similar challenges when using the watercolor technique wet-on-dry.

Common mistakes include:

• Overworking an area, which can damage the paper surface
• Using too little paint, resulting in scratchy or uneven marks
• Pausing during a wash, creating unwanted hard edges

Allowing areas to dry fully before making corrections helps prevent muddy or uneven results.

Combining Wet-On-Dry With Wet-On-Wet Techniques

Wet-on-dry works beautifully when combined with wet-on-wet techniques. Many watercolor paintings begin with loose wet-on-wet washes to establish atmosphere and background, followed by wet-on-dry to refine details and define shapes.

Knowing when to switch between these techniques is an important step in developing confidence and versatility as a watercolor artist.

Why Wet-On-Dry Is Ideal for Watercolor Students

Because wet-on-dry offers predictability and control, it is often the most approachable watercolor technique for beginners. It teaches essential skills such as:

• Brush pressure control
• Paint consistency
• Edge control
• Layering techniques

Mastering wet-on-dry provides a strong foundation for exploring more advanced watercolor methods.

Recommended Watercolor Paper for Wet-On-Dry Painting

Use 140 lb cold press archival 100% cotton rag watercolor paper. It is advisable to stretch the watercolor paper first to prevent it from buckling if you plan to cover the paper with a wet-on-wet wash. To avoid stretching the paper, I recommend using a watercolor paper block.

Cotton paper withstands repeated wetting and drying better than cellulose paper, making it ideal for wet-on-wet techniques.

The watercolor technique wet-on-wet is the process of wetting the paper’s surface first with water before applying watercolor paint to it. The water can be brushed on, sprayed on, or sponged on the paper. Watercolor paint is then brushed on while the paper is still wet or damp.

Wetting the paper first allows the watercolor paint to spread or flow when it is brushed on the wet surface. Whether the watercolor paint spreads or flows depends on the angle of the paper surface. If the paper is laid flat on a table, the watercolor paint will spread out from where the paintbrush tip touches the paper. How much the color spreads is dependent on the wetness of the paper. If the paper is placed at a slant on an easel, the watercolor paintbrush strokes will flow downward.

Why Wet-On-Wet Watercolor Paint Moves

Understanding why watercolor paint moves on wet paper helps artists gain more control over this technique. When water is applied to the paper first, it creates pathways that the pigment naturally follows. This movement is influenced by gravity, capillary action, and the amount of moisture present on the paper’s surface.

Pigment particles travel through the water already on the paper. Heavier pigments may settle more quickly, while lighter or staining pigments tend to travel farther. This is why wet-on-wet painting can appear spontaneous but is actually governed by predictable physical behavior.

Wet-On-Wet Paper Surface Stages (The Sheen Test)

Timing plays a crucial role in successful wet-on-wet watercolor painting. The appearance of the paper’s surface indicates how the paint will behave.

• Glossy sheen: The paper is very wet, allowing paint to spread rapidly and create soft blooms.
• Satin sheen: The paper is evenly damp, offering the most control while still allowing soft blending.
• Damp or matte: The paper is beginning to dry, resulting in minimal spreading and softer edges.

Tilting the paper under a light source helps identify the sheen level before applying paint.

Wet-On-Wet Wash Technique

The wet-on-wet “wash” is used for painting large, solid-color backgrounds or underpainting for glazing and for smaller areas and objects in a composition.

• Flat Wash Technique – painting an area with watercolor paint in a seamless color value without evident brush strokes showing.
• Graded Wash Technique – painting an area with watercolor paint from a dark to a light color value by adding more water to the paint brush instead of adding more watercolor paint.

A sufficient amount of watercolor paint and water needs to be mixed ahead of time so that the color value is consistent throughout the wet-on-wet wash process. If you have to stop to mix more watercolor with water, the paper will become dry, and your wash mixture will most likely not have the same color value as your initial wash.

Brush Selection for Wet-On-Wet Washes

For covering large areas, use a one-inch flat brush or an oval “wash brush” (also called a “mop brush”). To paint smaller areas with a wet-on-wet wash, use a round brush size 10 or larger.

Brushes that hold a generous amount of water and release it evenly help maintain consistent wetness across the paper surface.

Controlling Brush Pressure and Painting Speed

Controlling the brush and the painting speed is important. The wetness of the paper needs to be consistent until the desired area is covered with the wet-on-wet wash. The tip of the brush should lightly touch the paper and move across the paper in a smooth, horizontal stroke.

Working too slowly may cause sections of the paper to dry unevenly, while working too quickly can flood the surface with excess water.

Allowing the Wet-On-Wet Wash to Dry Properly

When the wet-on-wet wash is completed, leave the paper tilted at a slight angle on a board or easel until it has dried completely. Then proceed with painting the rest of your watercolor composition.

Avoid using a heat source to speed up drying, as this can cause unwanted blooms or uneven textures.

How Pigment Choice Affects Wet-On-Wet Results

Not all watercolor pigments behave the same way on wet paper. Some pigments naturally granulate, creating textured effects, while others spread smoothly and stain the paper fibers.

• Granulating pigments create natural texture
• Staining pigments spread quickly and are difficult to lift
• Earth pigments tend to move less and create softer transitions
• Transparent pigments produce luminous wet-on-wet effects

Understanding pigment behavior helps artists make informed color choices.

Environmental Factors That Influence Wet-On-Wet Painting

The surrounding environment plays a significant role in wet-on-wet watercolor techniques. High humidity slows drying time, while dry air, heat, or strong airflow can cause the paper to dry too quickly.

In dry environments, working in smaller sections or rewetting areas evenly can help maintain control over the wash.

Lifting and Softening Paint While the Paper Is Wet

Wet-on-wet painting allows for gentle corrections while the paper is still damp. A clean, damp brush can be used to lift excess paint or soften edges. Blotting with a paper towel can also remove pigment, creating lighter areas or highlights.

These techniques should be used sparingly to avoid disturbing the paper surface.

Common Wet-On-Wet Watercolor Mistakes

Artists new to wet-on-wet painting often encounter challenges such as:

• Overworking the paint, resulting in muddy colors
• Uneven drying that causes backruns or blooms
• Applying paint when the paper is too wet or too dry
• Using paper that cannot withstand heavy moisture

Recognizing these issues early helps improve results and build confidence.

Best Subjects for Wet-On-Wet Watercolor Painting

Wet-on-wet techniques are particularly well suited for subjects that benefit from soft edges and smooth transitions, including:

• Skies and clouds
• Misty landscapes
• Water reflections
• Soft florals
• Abstract backgrounds
• Underpaintings for later glazing

Wet-On-Wet vs. Wet-On-Dry Watercolor Techniques

Wet-on-wet produces soft edges and flowing color transitions, while wet-on-dry offers sharper edges and greater precision. Artists often combine both techniques within the same painting to balance control and spontaneity.

Practice Exercises for Wet-On-Wet Mastery

Practicing simple exercises helps build familiarity with this technique. Try experimenting with single-color washes, blending two colors on wet paper, or tilting the paper to observe how pigment flows. These exercises develop control and confidence over time.

Recommended Watercolor Paper for Wet-On-Wet Painting

Use 140 lb cold press archival 100% cotton rag watercolor paper. It is advisable to stretch the watercolor paper first to prevent it from buckling if you plan to cover the paper with a wet-on-wet wash. To avoid stretching the paper, I recommend using a watercolor paper block.

Cotton paper withstands repeated wetting and drying better than cellulose paper, making it ideal for wet-on-wet techniques.

In this post, I will define what are watercolor techniques and provide a list of techniques with brief descriptions for each.

Definition of a Watercolor Technique

A technique is defined as a way of carrying out a particular task, especially the execution or performance of an artistic work or a scientific procedure; a skillful or efficient way of doing or achieving something.

So, a watercolor technique is a method, procedure, or process to achieve a particular desired effect when painting in watercolor. Mastering watercolor techniques gives the artist the ability to control the application of watercolors to the painting surface.

By practicing watercolor techniques, you will acquire the know-how and skills to paint flat and three-dimensional shapes and textures, depict light and shadow, use colors, and reserve white space in your composition.

Why Watercolor Techniques Matter for Beginners and Hobbyists

Watercolor is often described as both simple and challenging. While the materials themselves are straightforward, watercolor behaves differently than most other painting mediums. Because watercolor is transparent and fluid, techniques play a critical role in controlling how paint and water interact on paper.

For students and hobbyists, learning watercolor techniques provides:

• Greater confidence when approaching a blank page
• Better control over washes, edges, and color transitions
• Fewer unexpected blooms, streaks, or muddy colors
• A stronger foundation for developing personal style over time

Rather than relying on trial and error alone, understanding techniques allows you to paint with intention.

A Brief History of Watercolor Techniques

Many watercolor techniques developed out of necessity rather than experimentation. Early watercolor artists—such as botanical illustrators, mapmakers, and landscape painters—needed reliable methods for applying transparent color accurately and efficiently.

Flat washes, graded washes, glazing, and careful preservation of white space were essential because watercolor corrections were limited. Over time, artists began to explore expressive possibilities, leading to techniques like drybrush, spattering, and granulation becoming valued for their texture and spontaneity.

Understanding this history helps students see watercolor techniques not as decorative effects, but as practical tools refined over centuries.

Wash Techniques in Watercolor Painting

• Flat Wash Technique – creates a continuous flat color without showing evidence of brushstrokes
• Graded Wash Technique – creates a gentle, graduated dark-to-light effect using one color
• Variegated Wash Technique – creates a gentle graduated blending effect using two or more colors

Wash techniques are the basic methods used for watercolor painting and are the primary skills learned and practiced by the beginner in watercolor.

Wet and Dry Watercolor Techniques

• Wet-On-Wet Technique – water is applied to the paper first before painting watercolors on it
• Wet-On-Dry Technique – painting watercolors on dry paper (without prewetting the paper)

Wet and dry techniques are used for laying washes and creating textural effects.

Understanding Paper Moisture and Timing in Watercolor

Timing is one of the most important—and most overlooked—aspects of watercolor techniques. The moisture level of the paper dramatically affects how paint behaves.

In general, watercolor paper moves through several stages:

• Shiny wet
• Damp
• Moist
• Dry

Wet-on-wet techniques work best when the paper is shiny or damp, while lifting techniques are most effective when paint is moist but not fully dry. Hard and soft edges are also controlled by timing rather than brush pressure alone.

Learning to recognize these moisture stages helps students predict results instead of reacting to surprises.

Preserving White Space in Watercolor

• Planning and saving white space – determining, before starting a painting, where to leave white space in the composition and avoiding applying watercolor to those saved white spaces
• Resist Technique – applying waterproof materials such as masking fluid or Frisket, masking film, and masking tape to the paper surface before painting to preserve white space

Preserving white space is essential for painting in watercolor because, unlike painting in oils, white watercolor paint is not normally used. Instead, the white of the paper serves the purpose of the white areas needed in a watercolor composition.

Applying Watercolor Paint Using Traditional Techniques

• Glazing Technique – layer of transparent or semi-transparent watercolor paint applied to a wet surface, then left to dry before adding the next layer of transparent or semi-transparent watercolor paint over the previous layer
• Layering Technique – glazing layers to build depth and three-dimensional form
• Light to Dark Technique – light watercolor applied first, then left to dry before adding darker watercolors in succession
• Hard and Soft Edges Technique – blending a sharp edge into a blurred edge to make it appear to fade softly into the distance for perspective and three-dimensional form

These techniques for applying watercolors to paper are the basic methods for painting in watercolor.

How Materials Affect Watercolor Techniques

Watercolor techniques do not exist in isolation—they are influenced by the materials you use. Results can vary significantly depending on:

• Paper surface (hot press, cold press, or rough)
• Pigment properties (staining, granulating, transparent, or opaque)
• Water control (amount, brush load, and absorption rate)

For example, granulation techniques rely on pigments with heavier particles, while drybrush effects depend heavily on paper texture. Understanding these relationships helps students troubleshoot issues and make informed material choices.

Creating Textural Effects in Watercolor

• Drybrush Technique – painting with an almost dry brush with only paint loaded onto it
• Granulation Technique – painting with watercolor paints that have grainy pigment particles
• Lifting Technique – applying absorbent paper to a damp painted area to lift the watercolor
• Salt Technique – applying salt to a damp painted area that is then left to dry before rubbing off the salt
• Sgraffito Technique – applying a knife’s edge to a painted area to scratch out the watercolor
• Spattering Technique – flicking paint off of a brush to create random spatters of watercolor

Textural effects are elements that are added to a watercolor composition to give it detail and depth.

Technique vs. Style in Watercolor Painting

A common misconception among beginners is confusing technique with style. Techniques describe how paint is applied, while style reflects how an artist consistently uses techniques together.

Two artists may use the same watercolor techniques—such as wet-on-wet, glazing, and drybrush—yet produce entirely different results. Style develops gradually as artists gain confidence and make intentional choices based on their preferences.

For students and hobbyists, focusing on technique first provides a strong foundation for personal expression later.

A Suggested Learning Progression for Watercolor Techniques

To avoid overwhelm, it can be helpful to approach watercolor techniques in stages:

• Beginner techniques: Flat washes, graded washes, wet-on-dry, light to dark
• Intermediate techniques: Wet-on-wet, glazing, lifting, soft edges
• Advanced or expressive techniques: Granulation control, sgraffito, spattering, masking combinations

Practicing techniques in this order allows skills to build naturally.

Common Misconceptions About Watercolor Techniques

• Watercolor techniques are not tricks; they are repeatable skills
• More water does not always mean smoother blends
• Many mistakes are caused by timing issues, not pigment choice
• Preserving white space requires planning, not just masking fluid

Understanding these misconceptions helps students approach watercolor with patience and confidence.

How Mastering Watercolor Techniques Improves Creative Freedom

Watercolor techniques are tools, not rules. As students and hobbyists gain experience, techniques become second nature, allowing greater freedom and spontaneity in painting.

When techniques are well understood, artists can choose when to maintain control and when to allow watercolor to flow naturally. Mastery makes experimentation more enjoyable and less intimidating.